Dictionary
A
Abseil, to
Descending
by sliding down a rope. Americans usually call this rappelling.
(d) Abseilen, (f) Descendre en rappel, (nl) Afdalen/abseilen,
(i) Doppia, fare una doppia, (e) Rapelar / descenso en rappel,
(s) fira, (pl) Zjazd na linie
Adze
The flat cutting
end of the ice axe head.
(pl) Lpatka czekana
Aid climbing
Moving up
a rock using fixed or placed protecting as a means of progression
(and not just for protection). Also known in the US as sixth class
climbing.
(d) Technisch klettern, (f) Escalade artificielle, (nl) Artificieel
klimmen, (i) Arrampicata artificiale, (e) Escalada artificial,
(s) Teknisk klättring / Artificiell klättring, (pl)
Hakowka
Aider
Webbing ladder
used for aid climbing. The word was probably coined by someone
who couldn't spell the french word étrier.
(d) Leiter, (f) Étrier, (nl) Ladder, (i) Staffa, (e) Estribo,
(s) Stegar, (pl) Laweczka podciagowa
Aid route
Route that
can only be ascended using aid climbing techniques
(d) Techno-route, (f) Voie d'artif, (i) Via in artificiale, (e)
Ruta artificial
Alcove
A belay ledge
that is surrounded by vertical rock on all sides.
(pl) Nyza
Alpine butterfly
Butterfly
knot.
AMS
Acute mountain
sickness. (Ask your medical doctor.)
(pl) Ostra choroba gorska
Anchor
Point where
the rope is fixed to the rock.
(d) Fixpunkt/Verankerung, (f) Point d'assurage, (f-c) Point d'ancrage,
(nl) Zekeringspunt, (i) Ancoraggio, (e) Anclaje / Punto de seguro,
(s) Ankare / Förankring, (pl) Punkt asekuracyjny
Arete
A narrow (more
or less - but often more less than more - horizontal) ridge.
(d) Grat, (f) arête, (nl) graat, (i) cresta, (e) cresta
/ cuchilla, (pl) grzebien, (sl) hreben
Ascenders
Devices (e.g.
Jumars) to ascend a rope.
(d) Steigklemmen, (f) Jumars / Poignées ascensionnelles,
(nl) Stijgklemmen, (i) Maniglie/Ascensori, (e) Ascensores / Jumars,
(s) Repklämmor, (pl) Zacisk
ATC
'Air Traffic
Controller', belaying device made by Black Diamond.
Avalanche
Lots of snow
or ice sliding down a mountain.
(d) Lawine, (f) Avalanche, (nl) Lawine, (i) Valanga, (e) Avalancha,
(s) Lavin, (pl) Lawina
B
Bail,
to
To give up
on a rock climb or a summit attempt because of bad weather coming
in.
Barn
door, to
To lose the
foot and hand holds on one side of the body. Usually causes the
climber to swing like a barn door.
(f) partir
en drapeau
Base
camp
The lowest
and largest fixed camp on a major ascent (or multiple ascents
in the same area).
(d) Basislager, (f) Camp de base, (nl) Basiskamp, (i) Campo base,
(e) Campamento base, (s) Basläger, (pl) Obozowisko
Beer
Liquid consumed
in large quantities after climbing.
(d) Bier, (f) bière / mousse, (f-c) broue, (nl) bier /
pintje, (i) birra, (e) cerveza, (s) öl, (pl) piwo, (sl) piwo
Belay,
to
To secure
a climber.
(d) Sichern, (f) Assurer , (nl) Zekeren, (i) Assicurare, (e) Asegurar
/ Dar seguridad, (s) Säkra, (pl) Ubezpieczac
Belay
Betty and Belay Bob
The girl or
boyfriend of an addictive rock climber.
(d) Sicherungsmaschine
Belay
station
A safe stance
consisting of an anchor, a rope, and a belayer (aka "the
belay")
(d) Standplatz, (f) Relais, (nl) Standplaats, (i) Sosta, (e) Punto
de encuentro, Reunión, (s) Standplats, (pl) Stanowisko
Belayer
The person
at the belay station securing the climber.
(d) Sicherungsmann/frau, (f) Assureur, (nl) Zekeraar, (i) Assicuratore/trice,
(e) Asegurador, (s) Säkringsman, (pl) Asekurant
"Belay
on"
When the belayer
is ready to belay the climber up, he yells "Belay on".
(At least in the US, "belay on" would only confuse the
hell out of a British climber who prefers to hear "Climb
when ready").
(d) "nachkommen", (f) "quand tu veux", (f-c)
"assuré", (nl) "nakomen", (i) "puoi
venire", (e) "sube" / "vienes", (s) "säkring
klar", (pl) "asekuracja gotowa" / “asekuruje”
"Below"
Used in Britain
to warn for impending impact with objects coming from above (e.g.
falling rock). "Rock" in the US.
(d) "Stein", (f) "Caillou" ("Pierre"
is a common French name and might cause confusion with those individuals
that respond to that name), (f-c) "Roche", (i) "Sasso",
(e) "Piedra", (s) "Sten"
Bent
gate karibiner
Karibiner
with the gate bent to accept the rope more easily. Not uncontroversial.
(d) Bananenkarabiner, (f) Mousqueton à doigt incurvé,
(i) Moschettone a barra ricurva, (e) Mosquetón express,
(s) Karbin med böjd grind, (pl) Karabinek z lekko otwierajacym
sie zamkiem
(d) "Berg
Heil !"
A German greeting
at the summit.
Bergschrund
Or just 'schrund'.
The top crevasse in a glacier or snowfield that is formed when
the glacier/snowfield tears away from the remaining patch of snow
that is stable on the mountainside.
(d) Bergschrund, (f) Rimaye
Beta
Insider information
about a climb. Running or auto beta is someone telling you how
to do the moves as you go (as in "can you please shut up
with that running beta, I want to find out myself").
(d) Informationen vor dem Start, (f) Description de la voie, (i)
Informazioni
Beta
flash
Leading a
climb with no falling or dogging, but with a piece of previous
knowledge hints on how to do those crux moves. Even seeing someone
do the climb already classifies as 'previous knowledge'.
(d) Flash mit Ansage, (f) Flash
Big
wall
Rock climb
that is so long and sustained that a normal ascent lasts several
days.
(d) Big Wall, (f) Grande paroi / grande falaise, (f-c) Grand mur,
(e) Gran Pared, (s) Storöägg / Bigwall
Biner
Short for
Karabiner
(d) Kara, (f) Mousquif / Moustif, (e) Mosquete / Mosquetón,
(s) Karbin, (pl) Karabinek
Birdbeak
A tiny hooked
piton manufactured by A5. It is similar to the old Chouinard "Crack'n
up", except that it only has a single side and that it is
intended to be hammered in if necessary.
(pl) Rodzaj skajhuka
Bivouac
Or short,
bivi. An uncomfortable sleeping place in the middle of a route.
(d) Biwak, (f) Bivouac, (nl) Bivak, (i) Bivacco, (e) Bivac, (s)
Bivack, (pl) Biwak
Black
ice
Old ice that
was exposed to extremely cold temperatures, scree, and snowfall.
Usually found deep in shady couloirs, or on steep north faces.
Very hard and dense ice that is difficult to climb.
(f) Glace noire, (pl) Czarny lod
Blast,
to
To begin a
big wall, after the line fixing is done. "We're gonna blast
on Tuesday morning after we get the first three pitches fixed".
(f)
Bleausard
Someone who
frequents 'Bleau (or Fontainebleau, the site of some excellent
bouldering near Paris).
Blue
ice
Very dense
ice with a watery hue and few air bubbles.
Bolt
(d) Bohrhaken, (f) spit / scellement, (i) spit, (e) spits / bolt,
(s) bult, (pl) spit
Bolt,
expansion
(d) Bohrhaken,
(f) Cheville à expansion, (nl) Boorhaak, (i) Caviglie da
espansione, (e) Piton de expansion, parabolt, (s) Borrbult
Bomber
Used to indicate
that something is exceptionally solid, e.g. an anchor, a hold.
See also bombproof.
(e) Firme, (s) Kanon
Bombproof
The illusion
that an anchor is infallible
(d) Bomben sicher, (f) béton (i) A prova di bomba, (e)
A prueba de bomba, (s) Bombsäker
Bonehead
A (novice)
climber with more braves than brains. Knows just enough about
climbing to get himself and others badly hurt.
Bong
An almost
extinct species of extra wide pitons. Now, large chocks are usually
used instead.
(f)
"Bonne Grimpe !"
A greeting
to climbers when they start the climb.
(e) "¡Buena suerte!"
Bootie
Gear (nuts,
cams, etc.) that was left behind on a climb by the previous party.
Boulder,
to
Climbing unroped
on boulders or at the foot of climbs to a height where it is still
safe to jump off.
(d) Bouldern (f) Faire du bloc, (nl) Boulderen, (i) Arrampicare
su masso, (e) Boulder / Cascarear
Bounce,
to
To crater
from an extreme height. Usually lethal.
(d) Todessturz, (pl) Obdijac sie skokami przy zjezdie
Bowline
Sailing knot
(not to be used for climbing, unless backed up with a second knot)
(d) Bulinknoten/Palstek, (f) Noeud de chaise, (nl) Paalsteek,
(i) (Nodo) bulino, (e) Bulín, (s) Pålstek, (pl) Wezel
tatrzanski
Brain
bucket
Aka helmet.
That all important hard shelled thing that covers our (second?)
most valuable asset.
Bucket
A large hold
(Aka "jug", esp. in UK)
(d) Henkel, (f) Bac/baquet, (nl) bak, (i) Fibbia / Vasca, (e)
Asa / gasa, (s) Brevlåda
Buildering
To climb buildings
(d) Fassadenklettern,
(f-c) Escalade de ville, (nl) Geveltoerisme, (e) Escalada urbana,
(s) Fasadklättring, (pl) Wspinanie po murach
Bust
a move, to
To successfully
execute a hard crux move.
Butterfly
knot
Interesting
but rarely used climbing knot. Alpine butterfly
(f-c) Noeud papillon / les oreilles du Micky ??, (e) Nudo de mariposa,
(pl) Motylek
Buttress
The part of
the mountain or rock that stands in front of the main mountainface.
(d) Vorbau / Pfeiler, (f) Pillier, (i) Pilastro, (e) Espolón,
(s) Pelare, (pl) Pochyly filar
C
Cam
Generic reference
to the family of spring loaded camming devices (SLCD) such as
friends, camalots, aliens, TCUs, etc. Also referred to as springs
(d) Friends, (f) Friends, (e) Levas, (pl) Krzywka
Campus
A dyno executed
using the arms only. Comes from the campus board where the people
who do this move get the muscle to do it.
(d) Frei hängend
Campus
board
A wooden training
board with finger ledges that is used for training dynos and finger
power.
(d) Hangelbrett, (f) Planche d'entraînement, (e) Tabla de
entrenamiento
Carabiner
The alternative
American spelling of the word Karabiner. Also spelled Caribiner.
Chalk
Magic powder
that makes the hands stick to even the smoothest rock.
(d) Chalk/Magnesia, (f) Magnésie, (nl) Magnesiumpoeder,
(i) Magnesia, (e) Magnesio, (s) Krita, (pl) Magnezja
Chausey
Poor rock
conditions. Also spelled chossy.
Cheese
grater, to
To slide down
a slab while scraping the knees, hands, and face.
Chest
harness
Bra-like looking
harness (to be used with waist harness)
(d) Brustklettergurt, (f) Harnais, (nl) Borstgordel, (i) Cinghia
pettorale, (e) Arnés de pecho, (s) Bröstsele, (pl)
upzraz piersiowa
Chickenhead
Sometimes
phallic shaped, protruding lumps that make excellent hand or footholds
on granite, etc.
(d) Zacke / Felsköpfel, (f-c) Banane, (e) Chile / cuerno,
(pl) Duzy, owalny wystep skalny
Chimed
Exhausted.
"This climb has got me chimed."
Chimney
A wide crack
that accommodates (most of) the body of the climber.
(d)Kamin, (f) Cheminée, (nl) Schoorsteen, (i) Camino, (e)
Chimenea, (s) Kamin, (pl) Komin
Chimney,
to
A climbing
technique used to conquer chimneys. Usually requires the use of
the back and feet, arms, head and other body parts.
(d) Stemmen, (pl) Zapierac sie w kominie
Chipped
hold
A hold created
with a hammer and chisel by a moron incapable of doing the climb
as it is.
(d) Geschlagener Griff, (f) Prise taillée, (i) Presa scavata,
(s) Chippade grepp, (pl) Chwyt 'rzezbiony' dlutem
Chock
Generic reference
to the family of passive wired protection devices, also called
nuts, stoppers, wires, and rocks.
(f) coinceurs, (e) Nueces
Chockstone
A stone wedged
between a crack, a chimney, etc.
(f) Bloc coincé, (s) Kilsten, (pl) Kamien yaklinowany w
rysie
Choss
In Australia,
this means poor rock (you can take all the holds home...). In
the UK, choss is dirt and vegetation found in cracks (or Munge
in the US).
Chute
A very steep
gully. The word chute is French for fall and refers to the rockfall
that is very common in a chute.
(pl) Zleb
Cirque
A deep and
steep-walled basin on a mountain usually forming the blunt end
of a valley. From the French word for circus. Also known as corrie.
Class
A number designating
the overall technical level of a route. The first number in the
YDS designates the class of the climb. Here's the different classes...
(e) Clase
Clean
Climbing without
falling or dogging.
(f) Enchaicirc;ner (une voie), (e) Escalada limpia
Clean
Aid climbing
without hammering.
(e) Limpiar
Clean,
to
To remove
the pro from a route. Usually done by the follower.
(d) Abbauen / Ausraümen, (pl) Sciagnac asekuracje
Cliff
A vertical
piece of rock good for climbing (see also Crag).
(d) Fels, (f) Falaise, (nl) Rots, (i) Falesia, (e) Risco, (s)
Klippa, (pl) Skala
Cliffhanger
Not just a
silly film with Wolfgang Güllich and Ron Kauk, but also the
name for a small hooking device used to aid climb up small ledges
and pockets.
Climb,
to
(d) Klettern,
(f) Grimper, (nl) Klimmen, (i) Arrampicare/scalare, (e) Escalar,
(s) Klättra, (pl) Wspinac sie
Climb,
a
(d) Kletterei,
(f) Escalade, (nl) Klim, (i) Arrampicata , (e) Escalada, (s) Led/Tur
"Climbing"
What the climber
shouts after the belayer screams "Belay on".
(d) "Komme", (f) "Départ", (nl) "Ik
kom", (i) "parto"/"vengo", (e) "Voy",
(s) "Jag klättrar", (pl) "Ide"
Climbing
gym
The second
best thing to real rock (Aka "wall" in the UK).
(d) Kletterhalle, (f) Mur d'escalade / Salle d'escalade, (nl)
Klimzaal/Klimhal, (i) Palestra, (e) Muro artificial de escalada,
(s) Inomhusvägg
Climbing
shoes
Shoes made
of sticky rubber that would have fit you comfortably when you
were ten.
(d) Kletterschuhe, (f) Chaussons d'escalade, (nl) Klimschoenen,
(i) Scarpe da roccia / scarpette / pedule, (e) Pies de gato /
tenis de escalada, (e-argentina) pedulas / zapatillas de escalada,
(s) Klätterskor, (pl) Pantofle / buty wspinaczkowe
Climbing
wall
The British
word for a climbing gym.
"Climb
when ready"
The British
equivalent of "Belay on".
(f) “Quand tu veux”, (e) "Cuando estés
listo", (e-argentina) "veni", (pl) "Mozesz
isc"
Clip,
to
The reassuring
action of putting the rope through a karabiner (that is attached
to a piece of pro).
(d) Einhängen, (f) Mousquetonner, (pl) wpiac sie
Clove
hitch
A useful,
easily adjustable climbing knot usually used to tie the rope into
a karibiner.
(d) Mastwurf, (f) Noeud de cabestan, (i) Nodo barcaiolo, (e) Cola
de cochino, (s) Dubbelt halvslag, (pl) Wyblinka
Col
A steep, high
mountain pass.
(f) Col, (pl) Siodlo
Coombe
Welsh word
for corrie or cirque. Also spelled cwm.
Cord
Thin static
rope (5, 5.5 or 6 mm)
(d) Reepschnur, (f) Cordelette, (nl) Prusiktouw, (i) Cordino,
(e) Cordino / cordeleta, (s) Repsnöre, (pl) Repsznur
Corner
Inside corner
(see dihedral) or outside corner. In the UK, a corner is always
an inside one.
(f) Dièdre, (i) Diedro, (e) Esquina, (s) Hörn, (pl)
Zaciecie
Corn
snow
Unconsolidated
granular snow that has gone through a short freeze-and-thaw process.
This type of snow is prevalent throughout the High Sierra in April
and May.
(f) neige de printemps, (pl) snieg kukurydziany
Corrie
Other word
for cirque. Spelled coire in Scotland and coombe or cwm in Wales.
Couloir
A steep gully
which may have snow or ice.
(f) Couloir, (pl) Kuluar
Crab
Short for
Karabiner.
Crack,
in rock
A gap or fissure
in the rock varying in width from nail to bodywidth.
(d) Riß, (f) Fissure, (nl) (Rots)-spleet, (i) Fessura, (e)
Grieta, (s) Spricka, (pl) Rysa
Crag
Name for a
(small) climbing area.
(d) Klettergarten, (f) Falaise, (i) Falesia, (s) Klippa, (pl)
Skala
Crampons
Very pointy
footware use to walk glaciers or climb ice.
(d) Steigeisen, (f) Crampons, (nl) Stijgijzers, (i) Ramponi, (e)
Crampones, (s) Stegjärn, (pl) Raki
Crank,
to
To pull on
a hold as hard as you can, and then some.
(d) Durchziehen, (pl) Wspinac sie w rysach
Crater,
to
To fall and
hit the ground, as in "I almost cratered".
(f) Se gaufrer/se vautrer/se planter/dévisser, se viander,
(s) Kratra, (pl) glebowac
Crest
The very top
of a ridge or arete.
(pl) Ostrze grzbietu
Crevasse
A crack in
the surface of a glacier.
(d) (Gletscher-)spalte, (f) Crevasse, (nl) (Gletscher-)spleet,
(i) Crepaccio, (e) Grieta, (s) Glaciärspricka, (pl) szczelina
lodowcowa
Crimper
A very small
hold that accepts only the finger tips. In the UK, this is just
called a crimp.
(d) Kratzer / Pinchi, (f) Gratton, (i) Tacca, (e) Grieta de dedos
Crux
The hard bit.
(d) Crux/Schlueßelstelle, (f) Le pas/Crux/passage clé,
(nl) Sleutelpassage, (i) Passo chiave, (e) Paso clave, (s) Krux,
(pl) Najtrudniejszy przechwyt, wyciag na drodze
Cwm
The Welsh
spelling for coombe or cirque.
D
Daisy
chain
A sling sewn
(or tied) with numerous loops, used as an adjustable sling in
aid climbing.
Deadpoint
A dynamic
move where the next hold is grabbed at the very top of the motion
(if you lunge upwards, that is just before you start falling again).
By grabbing a hold in its 'deadpoint', you place the smallest
possible loads on the holds.
(d) Greifen im toten Punkt, (f) Jeté, (pl) Wspinanie dynamiczne
Death
wobbles
The eerie
sensation of jittery legs. Aka to Elvis or the sewing machine.
Deck
The usually
unfriendly surface that welcomes you at the end of a grounder.
Demigod
Highest form
of life in the climbing cosmos. Does not need rock to ascend to
great heights.
Descender
Device used
for rappelling.
(d) Abseiler, (f) descendeur, (i) discensore, (e) descensor, (s)
firningsbroms, (pl) przyjazd zjazdowy
Dihedral
The US term
for an inside corner (Aka "open book").
(d)Verschneidung, (f) Dièdre, (nl) Versnijding/hoek, (i)
Diedro, (e) Diedro, (s) (Inner-) hörn / Dieder
"Dirt
me"
US slang which
means as much as 'Lower me'.
(d) "Ablassen" / "Nach"
Dog
(to dog a move)
Climbing,
lowering, climbing again till a certain move is made (the usual
mode of ascent...).
(d) Ausbouldern, (nl) Jo-jo
Double
fisherman's knot
Solid knot
used to tie two ropes or pieces of webbing together (Aka grapevine
knot).
(d) Doppelter Spierenstich, (f) Double noeud de pêcheur,
(nl) Dubbele visserssteek, (i) Nodo a contrasto doppio/nodo doppio
inglese, (e) Nudo de pescador doble, (s) Dubbel fiskarknop
Double
rope
Same as a
half rope. Also the technique using two half ropes.
(d) Doppelseil, (f) Corde à double, (i) Corda doppia, (e)
Cuerda doble, (s) Dubbelrep
Downclimbing
Descending
the difficult way.
(d) Abklettern, (f) Désescalader, (nl) Afklimmen, (i) disarrampicare
/ Arrampicare in discesa, (e) Destrepar / Desescalar, (s) Nedetklättring
Dry
tool, to
To ascend
a section of rock using ice tools - very common in mixed climbing.
Dude
Generic name
for a climber (in the US).
Dynamic
belay
A belay method
in which some rope is allowed to slip during severe falls. A dynamic
belay can severely reduce the impact force from a serious fall,
but can also severely kill you if not done properly.
(d) Dynamische Sicherung, (f) Assurage dynamique, (i) Sicura dinamica
/ assicurazione dinamica, (e) Seguro dinámico, (s) Dynamisk
säkring, (pl) asekuracja dynamiczna
Dyno
Dynamic movement
towards a distant hold.
(d) Dynamo, (f) Jeté, (nl) Dynamo, (i) Lancio, (e) Movimiento
dinámico, (s) Dynamisk move
More
Terms about climbing
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